SKIN BASICS | MAKEUP AND ACNE

Acne-Fighting Makeup Tips

Makeup and acne. It's like a dance. Your makeup can trigger acne. So you use makeup to cover up breakouts. The good news is, you can choose products that don't aggravate your skin and that helps you create a clean beauty routine.

The makeup "condition"

Yes, there is an actual condition related to your use of makeup. Acne cosmetica, or acne that's caused by cosmetics, is mild and fairly common. "Cosmetic" does not just mean makeup. Anything that touches your face can potentially cause it. That's why this condition can happen to anyone, male or female, even those not predisposed to acne attacks.

Not surprisingly, acne cosmetica affects skin areas where you apply cosmetics the most - cheeks and forehead. The condition develops over a period of weeks or months and appears as small, itchy or rash-like pink bumps. It may persist indefinitely, especially if you continue to use the same stuff on your face. But there's typically no scarring.

The easiest way to avoid acne cosmetica is to purchase makeup and skin care products that are "non-comedogenic" (see next section), and to avoid products that seem to be irritating your skin altogether if possible. Non-comedogenic products are less likely to cause irritation or clogging of your pores.

Acne cosmetica can mimic other acne conditions, so it's best to consult a dermatologist.

Comedogenics: Your face's enemy

When you apply makeup, it doesn't stay on certain areas of your face forever. Over time it ends up on your clothes, your hands, and on other parts of your face. You see, your makeup actually migrates across your skin, ultimately settling in your pores, similar to the way rainwater collects wherever there are small holes in the ground.

Trouble arises if you use makeup that includes comedogenic ingredients, substances known to clog pores. This can result in follicle irritation, which in turn will result in acne cosmetica.

What can you do about this, especially if you want to improve your appearance using makeup? Follow the rules below to create a clean beauty routine that will help you look your absolute best - and won't irritate your skin and lead to acne.

Seven rules for a clean beauty routine.

Avoid penetrating oils

Contrary to popular belief, not all oils are comedogenic. Petroleum products, mineral oil and sunflower oil do not penetrate into your pores. Most cosmetic oils, however, can aggravate acne so it's best to avoid them. One of the most common acne triggers in skin products, especially lotions and sunscreens, is lanolin. This is a fatty acid extracted from sheep's wool. Another trigger is Isopropyl Myristate. You might not recognize the name, but you've probably used it. It promotes a smooth and even application in many foundations. The bad news is this chemical is such an aggressive penetrator that it's the main ingredient in most rust-removers. Something to keep in mind next time you attend a trivia contest.

In general, products labeled "oil-free" and "non-comedogenic", such as the Proactiv Solution Sheer Finish makeup line (which is not only non-comedogenic but also medicated to help clear acne) are less likely to clog your pores and trigger acne breakouts.

Steer clear of sweet smells

Fragrance is a major cause of allergic and irritant reactions on the face. Even products that claim to be "unscented" may include fragrances added to mask the smell of other ingredients. Best advice? Stick with products labeled as "fragrance-free" or "hypo-allergenic." Of course, reactions to fragrance differ dramatically, and you may find certain perfumes don't affect your skin at all.

The most common offenders are fragrances in the ambrette, bergamot, cinnamate and musk families. If the derivatives of your favorite face cream or foundation's scent are not easily determined from the product label, try a patch test on the skin behind your ear. If no irritation appears after three days of repeated application, you may continue usage on a larger area.

Be smart about shadow and blush

The stuff that puts the sparkle in your eye shadow, face powder and blush is usually mica, a common mineral. The jagged, flaky shape of mica particles can cause irritation and/or clogging in your follicles, so it's best to use products without too much shimmer. Likewise, many of the red dyes used to put a bloom in your cheeks are actually coal tar derivatives and are thus very comedogenic, too.

Recommendations? Check labels for blushes that use carmine, a natural, healthy cosmetic colorant since the time of the Aztecs. Also, cream blushes are more likely to have comedogenic ingredients, so stick to powder or gel blushes if you're prone to acne.

Get wise to eye creams

Since the skin around your eyes is very delicate, creams created for this area are often thicker and greasier than regular facial moisturizers. Heavy eye creams and oily eye makeup removers can promote milia, tiny white cysts under the eyes. These kinds of products can also migrate to neighboring areas, creating acne on your cheeks, temples and forehead.

Style your hair with care

Most hair products are full of the ingredients that should never touch your skin. These include alcohol, adhesives and oils. So if you're prone to acne, use care when styling your hair. Cover your skin when you use hairspray, and try to keep oils, mousses, gels and pomades away from your skin at the hairline. And don't use hair products when you exercise. Perspiration from your scalp can carry styling products onto your skin, contributing to new acne breakouts.

Wash after exercising

Sweat doesn't cause acne, but if you are prone to acne, sweat can aggravate your skin and makeup can make matters worse. Even non-comedogenic products can cause clogging or irritation in the presence of heavy perspiration. As a rule, it's best to wash immediately after exercising with a medicated exfoliating cleanser.

Use the right lip lube

If you have problems with acne around the mouth area, you might want to reconsider the products you use on your lips. Lipsticks and glosses are greasy by nature, with high concentrations of petroleum, wax and other comedogenic substances. The greater the shine, the greater the potential for pore clogging. Try a matte finish instead.

Long story short: you can use makeup and other cosmetics, just make sure you choose them carefully. Read labels carefully to avoid common acne triggers. If you don't understand what the ingredients are (very common given all the scientific names), ask your dermatologist. And of course, use your common sense. If a product that looks okay on the label is irritating your skin, discontinue usage right away.

Proactiv

Proactiv, the world's #1 acne system, uses Combination Therapy® to directly target the root causes of acne - bacteria, oil production, and dead skin cell build up - to heal and soothe acne-prone skin. Developed by leading dermatologists, Drs. Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields, Proactiv clears existing blemishes, treats inflammation and redness, and prevents new breakouts before they start.

Get the smooth, clear, healthy-looking skin you deserve with Proactiv.